After two intense days in Campo Grande and an epic adventure in the Pantanal—riding horseback through wide open landscapes, cruising down silent rivers surrounded by caimans and capybaras, and scanning the dark with a flashlight on a night safari, we set off for Bonito, one of Brazil’s wildest and most thrilling ecotourism destinations.
However, due to heavy rains the previous week, the roads to Bonito from Barranco Alto had become unusable, so I travelled with two other people from my tour group by aero-taxi—a small 4-seater plane that made the journey in just under an hour. It turned out to be a spectacular experience in itself: flying low over vast wetlands and dense forest, we caught a final aerial glimpse of the wild landscape we’d just explored.
However, if you are in Campo Grande, you can book here a direct transfer by car to Bonito for approximately $30.
While the Pantanal gave us a raw and wild experience of nature, Bonito felt like stepping into a perfectly preserved natural playground. The town is small and friendly, with a clear commitment to sustainable tourism. Every activity is strictly regulated, group sizes are small, and nature is given the respect it deserves.
But let’s take a closer look at what to do in Bonito and surrounding area.
Estância Mimosa – Waterfalls and Forest Trails
During my time in Bonito, I joined a small group tour to Estância Mimosa, a private nature reserve located about an hour’s drive from Bonito. The place is a beautiful mix of preserved forest, hidden waterfalls, and traditional farm life—an ideal day trip if you’re looking to experience both nature and local culture.
I recommend Mimoso River Waterfalls Hiking Tour through Civitatis. This guided hike lasts around 2 to 3 hours and takes you through beautiful natural pools and waterfalls, with plenty of opportunities to swim and relax in pristine surroundings. The tour includes the use of boots for walking and swimming, and knowledgeable guides who share insights about the local flora and fauna. It’s a fantastic way to experience Bonito’s nature at a leisurely pace. You can find more details and book the tour here: Mimoso River Waterfalls Hiking Tour.
Estância Mimosa is a working fazenda that produces organic vegetables and natural honey. We started the day with a short visit to the garden and beekeeping area, learning about their sustainable farming practices. I also discovered that they sell a few homemade products, including a creamy dulce de leche that was absolutely delicious—I couldn’t resist buying a jar to take home.
Before setting off on the trail, the staff gave each of us free rubber boots to use for free, which was a thoughtful touch. The hike involves stepping through shallow streams and wading into waterfall pools, so the boots made it easy to move around without needing to change clothes or carry extra shoes.
The trail itself lasts around 2 to 3 hours, winding through the Atlantic Forest with stops at several stunning waterfalls. Some spots were perfect for jumping in, others more tranquil and great for floating or simply relaxing in the cool water. Due to the rains from the past weeks, the water wasn’t as clear as usual, but it was still refreshing and enjoyable.
We moved along at a relaxed, easy going pace, with our guide giving us ample time to swim, float, and take in the beauty of each natural pool along the way. If you’re not in a rush, the walk can easily take longer—ideal if you want to fully enjoy the natural surroundings.
After finishing the walk, we handed back our boots, got changed, and sat down to a hearty buffet lunch at the farmhouse: the delicious spread, cooked over a traditional wood-fired stove, included fresh garden salads, rich stews, and perfectly grilled meats, all bursting with local flavor. It felt like a real home-cooked meal—simple but full of flavour.
In the afternoon, we went on a peaceful 1-hour horse ride through the property. The horses were calm and well cared for, and the route took us through open fields and light forest. It was incredibly quiet—the only sounds were birds calling and the gentle rhythm of the horses’ hooves. Along the way, we also spotted a few wild animals, including a family of capuchin monkeys and a coati darting across the trail.
Practical Tips
- Getting there: Estância Mimosa is about 1 hour by car from Bonito. If you’re not self-driving, it’s easiest to book through a local tour operator who will arrange transport and entry.
- Cost: Tours include the hike, guide, equipment (like boots and life jackets), and lunch. Prices vary depending on the season and operator, but expect to pay around R$ 250–350 per person (approx. €45–60).
- When to go: Try to visit early in the morning or on a weekday to avoid crowds—especially during Brazilian holidays or school breaks. During the rainy season (December to March), the trails can be muddier, but the waterfalls are more powerful and beautiful.
- What to bring: Swimsuit, towel, waterproof bag for electronics, and some cash if you want to buy honey or dulce de leche from the farm shop.
Snorkelling in Rio da Prata
Another unforgettable experience during my time in Bonito was snorkelling in Rio da Prata, one of the clearest and most biodiverse rivers in Brazil. The name means “Silver River,” and it truly lives up to the reputation—floating down its waters felt like gliding through a living aquarium.
Unlike other rivers in the region, Rio da Prata remains crystal clear even during rainy days or after weeks of rain, thanks to its natural limestone filtration system. The water also maintains a constant temperature of around 24°C (75°F) all year round, making it a perfect activity no matter the season.
I arranged a private taxi from Bonito to the fazenda where the tour begins. The drive took around 40 minutes, and I paid €40 round-trip, with the driver waiting on-site throughout the experience. Although it’s possible to book a cheaper tour that includes hotel pick-up, I was short on time and found the taxi option much more convenient.
If you’re planning a visit here, I highly recommend booking the Snorkelling in the Prata & Olho d’Água Rivers tour through Civitatis. This 4-hour experience includes all necessary equipment —wetsuit, boots, mask, and snorkel—and is led by knowledgeable guides who will ensure a safe and memorable adventure. The tour offers free cancellation up to three days in advance, providing flexibility for your travel plans. You can find more details and make a reservation here: Snorkelling in the Prata & Olho d’Água Rivers.
Upon arrival at the Fazenda Rio da Prata, I joined a small group of visitors for the tour. The fazenda also operates as a farm, growing local vegetables for their restaurant and shop. Before entering the water, we took a short walk through their beautiful vegetable gardens, which added an agritourism touch to the experience. We were provided with all the necessary gear, included in the tour price: a wetsuit, neoprene boots, life jacket, and snorkelling mask. After storing our belongings in lockers, we followed our guide on a short forest walk to the river’s spring.
As soon as I entered the water, the scene stunned me—crystal-clear and teeming with life, it felt like I had dived into a living aquarium. The visibility was extraordinary: I could see every pebble, plant, and fish gliding beneath me. After a brief safety explanation, we started floating gently with the current. The sensation was both peaceful and surreal, as shoals of colourful fish drifted by, and submerged tree roots created an underwater forest.
At the first pool, a professional photographer was waiting to take underwater photos, which you can later buy if you want a souvenir of your experience. The snorkelling last about 45 minutes to an hour, depending on the group’s pace. It was one of the most serene experiences of my trip—no noise, no distractions, just floating effortlessly through clear, living water.
After getting changed and returning the equipment, we enjoyed a buffet lunch at the fazenda’s restaurant. The food was fresh, local, and delicious—a real Brazilian farm-style meal. I also had the chance to try their homemade sweets and jams, many made from fruits grown right there on the property.
Practical Tips
- Getting there: Rio da Prata is located about 40 minutes by car from Bonito. You can go with a tour that includes hotel transfers or hire a private taxi (like I did) for around €40 return.
- Cost: The tour, including all snorkelling gear and guide, typically costs R$ 290–350 per person (approx. €50–65). Lunch is usually included (depending on the our) but drinks are extra.
- When to go: Try to book a morning slot during the weekdays to avoid larger crowds. High season (December to February) can be busier and slightly more expensive.
- What to bring: Swimsuit, towel, a waterproof camera or GoPro if you want to film the experience, and cash for lunch or photo purchases.
- Eco tip: You’re not allowed to wear sunscreen or mosquito repellent while snorkelling, to help protect the fragile ecosystem, so bring long sleeves or a rash guard if needed.
Abismo Anhumas – A Hidden Underground World
For something truly out of the ordinary, I joined a tour group for an adventure at Abismo Anhumas, one of Bonito’s most unique and jaw-dropping experiences. It’s not for the faint of heart—but if you’re into caves, nature, or just doing something unforgettable, this one is hard to beat.
The day before the tour, I visited the Abismo Anhumas office in Bonito to try on and check the size of my wetsuit and boots. This is a required step, and actually really convenient—because on the day of the tour, they bring your gear directly down into the cave for you, so you don’t have to carry anything. After the tour, you leave everything there and it gets taken back up by the staff.
The tour day started early with a pickup and transfer to the cave site, located about 20 km from Bonito. After a safety briefing and getting suited up with harness, gloves, and helmet, it was time for the main event: a 72-metre descent by rappel into a vast underground cavern.
The descent is done in pairs, fully controlled by ropes and assisted by professional guides. As you slowly lower into the cave, a single shaft of sunlight cuts through the opening, revealing a giant hidden chamber with a mirror-like underground lake below.
Once at the bottom, there’s a wooden platform with benches and chemical toilets, where you can change into your swimming costume and wetsuit. It’s surprisingly comfortable, and well-organised for such a remote, natural location.
Then comes the second half of the adventure: snorkelling (or diving, if you’re certified) in one of the most surreal environments you can imagine. The water is so incredibly clear, you can see down to a depth of 18 metres, making it feel like you’re hovering in midair. The silence and stillness of the cave make it even more surreal.
You also have time to explore parts of the cave on a inflatable raft, guided by an expert who explains the formation of the cave and the fragile ecosystem inside. The full experience takes about 3 to 4 hours, and when it’s over, you’re pulled back up by a trained team operating a manual pulley system. It’s a slow, smooth ride—but be prepared, it’s still a little workout on the way up!
Practical Tips
- Getting there: Abismo Anhumas is located about 20 km from Bonito, and most visitors join a tour group that includes hotel pickup and transfer to the site.
- Cost: This is one of the more premium experiences in Bonito, costing around R$ 1,100 (approx. €190) for snorkelling. Diving tours are more expensive (€20 more) and require certification. Prices include all gear, insurance, and professional guides.
- Booking and preparation: You need to visit the Abismo Anhumas office in Bonito at least one day before the tour to try on and get fitted for your wetsuit and boots. This wetsuit is then brought inside the cave for you, so you don’t have to carry it yourself. After the tour, you leave the gear inside the cave and the staff take it back up.
- Facilities inside the cave: At the bottom of the rappel is a wooden platform with benches and chemical toilets where you can change into your swimming costume and wetsuit before snorkelling or diving.
- Fitness and safety: The descent is done by rappelling 72 metres, so you should be comfortable with heights and have a reasonable level of fitness. The guides are experienced and safety is top priority.
- When to go: Book well in advance, especially during high season (December to February and July), as spots fill up quickly. Weekdays tend to be less crowded.
- What to bring: Wear light, flexible clothes for the rappel, bring a towel, and a waterproof camera if you want photos inside the cave. Changing facilities are basic but functional.
Bonito – A Charming Town and Culinary Delight
Besides its incredible natural attractions, Bonito itself is a charming small town with a relaxed vibe, friendly locals, and a growing culinary scene. The town centre is made up of a main square and a shopping strip, and it’s easy to walk everywhere, which adds to its laid-back atmosphere. If you do need a taxi—for example, to or from your accommodation—you can usually get a ride for around 2 euros, making it both affordable and convenient. After a day full of outdoor adventures, it’s great to unwind in one of the local restaurants and enjoy traditional Brazilian food.
One place I highly recommend for lunch or dinner is Juanita, a traditional restaurant known for serving authentic regional dishes made with fresh local ingredients. The atmosphere is warm and inviting, perfect for enjoying specialties like pacu fish, grilled meats, and delicious homemade desserts. The place is always busy, especially on weekends, so it’s a good idea to arrive early or make a reservation if possible. Prices are very reasonable—you can expect to pay around €20 for a full meal with a drink, making it a great value for both the quality and quantity of food. It’s a wonderful way to experience the local culture and flavors after a day exploring the surrounding nature.
Where to Sleep in Bonito
Bonito offers a diverse range of accommodations to suit various preferences and budgets. Here are some top recommendations:
Pousada Arte da Natureza
A stylish pousada featuring multiple pools, including private options, and a lush garden setting. It’s centrally located, making it convenient for exploring Bonito’s attractions.
Zagaia Eco Resort
A family-friendly resort offering spacious rooms, multiple pools, and a range of activities. It’s ideal for those seeking comfort and entertainment in one place.
Hotel Pirá Miúna
A cozy hotel known for its warm hospitality, comfortable rooms, and a refreshing pool area. It’s a short walk from the town center.
Pousada Surucuá
A charming guesthouse offering personalized service, a tranquil garden, and a relaxing pool. It’s praised for its peaceful ambiance.
Hotel Santa Esmeralda
A boutique hotel set along the Formoso River, providing a serene environment with opportunities for kayaking and nature walks.
Pousada Boyrá
An eco-friendly lodge nestled in nature, offering rustic yet comfortable accommodations and direct access to the river.
These accommodations cater to a variety of tastes, from luxurious resorts to charming eco-lodges. When planning your stay, consider proximity to the town center if you prefer easy access to restaurants and shops, or opt for riverside lodges if you’re seeking a more tranquil, nature-immersed experience.
Conclusion
Bonito exceeded all my expectations, offering a perfect blend of adventure, nature, and relaxation. Whether it was floating like a fish in the clear waters of Rio da Prata, trekking and swimming among the waterfalls at Estância Mimosa, or rappelling deep into the mysterious Abismo Anhumas cave, each experience brought something new and unforgettable.
If you’re planning a trip to Bonito, I highly recommend taking your time to explore these natural wonders, and consider visiting during the less busy seasons to truly enjoy the serenity. Bonito is not just a destination—it’s a gateway to some of Brazil’s most beautiful and pristine landscapes, waiting to be discovered.
Lived in England since 1998 and travelled the world since 2005, visiting over 100 countries on 5 continents. Writer, blogger, photographer with a passion for adventure and travel, discovering those off beat places not yet on the tourist trail. Marco contributes the very best in independent travel tips and lifestyle articles.
