Leaving the grey skies of London behind, I boarded a direct flight from Heathrow to São Paulo – an 11-hour journey that marked the start of one of the most unforgettable adventures of my life. But before heading into the wild landscapes of the southern Pantanal, I spent three days in Campo Grande, the relaxed and underrated capital of Mato Grosso do Sul. Many travellers treat it as just a stopover, but I quickly discovered it’s a destination in its own right – with urban parks full of wildlife, vibrant markets, and a laid-back vibe that makes for the perfect soft landing in Brazil.
One thing worth noting – and locals will tell you this with a smile – is that Mato Grosso do Sul is not the same as Mato Grosso. While they were once part of the same state, they’ve been separate since 1977, and people here are very proud of that distinction. Mato Grosso do Sul has its own identity, culture, and rhythm – shaped by the vast wetlands of the Pantanal, rich Indigenous traditions, and strong Pantaneiro (cowboy) heritage. Don’t make the mistake of mixing them up – it’s a bit like confusing Scotland with England!
But let’s see what to do in Campo Grande, Brazil..
The Main Park in Campo Grande – Parque das Nações Indígenas
A highlight of my stay was Parque das Nações Indígenas, one of the largest urban parks in Brazil. It’s the perfect place for a peaceful walk or morning run – but what really makes it special is the wildlife. Capybaras are absolutely everywhere. You’ll see families of them lounging by the lakes, crossing the paths, or nibbling grass as if they own the place (which, let’s be honest, they kind of do).
You might also spot toucans, monkeys, lizards, and a wide variety of birds, especially if you go early in the morning or in the late afternoon, when the heat is more bearable and the animals are most active. But also the coati, also known as a nasua, a mammal from the raccoon family, very cute.
While you’re at the park, make time for a visit to the Dom Bosco Cultural Museum, which houses fascinating exhibits about the Indigenous communities of the region and the Pantanal ecosystem.
Bioparque Pantanal
Another must-visit while you’re at the park is the Bioparque Pantanal, the largest freshwater aquarium in the world and one of Campo Grande’s proudest achievements. Opened in 2022, this impressive space isn’t just an aquarium: it’s also an educational and scientific centre dedicated to the conservation of aquatic life and the ecosystems of the Pantanal and other Brazilian biomes. With over 350 species of fish, reptiles, and amphibians displayed across a series of beautifully designed tanks, it offers a unique glimpse into the underwater worlds of Brazil’s rivers.
What I loved most was how interactive and well-curated the experience is – there are touchscreens, detailed explanations in English and Portuguese, and even immersive zones that make you feel like you’re walking through a flooded forest. It’s both family-friendly and inspiring for adults, and a fantastic way to understand the rich biodiversity you’ll encounter later in the wild.
Metropolitan Cathedral
While exploring Campo Grande, it’s also worth visiting the Metropolitan Cathedral of Our Lady of the Abbey and St. Anthony (Catedral Nossa Senhora da Abadia e Santo Antônio). This striking blue-and-white church in the city centre is not only a place of worship but also a symbol of the city’s identity.
Just outside, you’ll often find a small stall selling fresh coconut water – a perfect refreshment on a hot day and a bargain at around 1 euro.
Mercadão Municipal
Not far from the cathedral, make time to stop at the Mercadão Municipal (Central Market). It’s a lively, colourful spot where you can browse local products like artisan crafts, spices, sweets, and souvenirs – often at much lower prices than you’ll find in Pantanal lodges or tourist shops. It’s a great place to pick up gifts or simply soak up the local flavour before heading into the wilderness.
Where to Stay in Campo Grande
For accommodation, I stayed at the Novotel Campo Grande, which is just minutes from the park. It’s a modern, comfortable hotel with a swimming pool, generous breakfast buffet, and friendly staff. It’s a great base whether you’re planning to explore the city or simply rest before heading deeper into the wilderness.
And just a short stroll from the hotel, you’ll find Cantina Mato Grosso – a lively bar and restaurant that serves up delicious regional dishes and artisanal beers brewed right here in the state. It’s a great place to try Pantanal-inspired food in a casual setting, and unwind with a cold birra artesanal after a hot day out exploring.
Transport tip
From Campo Grande airport to the city centre or hotel, I recommend using Uber. It’s widely available, safe, and usually cheaper than local taxis. Most rides into town cost just a few pounds or euros, depending on the time of day. If you’re travelling solo, you can also use Uber Moto – it’s even cheaper and faster, as motorbikes can weave through traffic.
Entry Requirements: Do You Need a Visa for Brazil?
Brazil’s visa policy varies depending on your nationality. As of now:
- UK, EU, and most South American passport holders do not need a visa for tourist stays of up to 90 days, but your passport must be valid for at least six months beyond your arrival date.
- Citizens of Australia, Canada, and the United States were previously exempt, but from April 2025, a tourist visa will be required again for these countries. Make sure to check the latest updates and apply online via Brazil’s official e-visa platform.
- Regardless of nationality, proof of onward travel and sufficient funds may be requested on arrival.
It’s always best to double-check the most current entry requirements with the Brazilian embassy or consulate in your home country before you travel.
Lived in England since 1998 and travelled the world since 2005, visiting over 100 countries on 5 continents. Writer, blogger, photographer with a passion for adventure and travel, discovering those off beat places not yet on the tourist trail. Marco contributes the very best in independent travel tips and lifestyle articles.
