I flew out of London Heathrow with that familiar mix of excitement and anticipation buzzing in my chest. After a long-haul flight to São Paulo and a smooth connection to Campo Grande—the laid-back capital of Mato Grosso do Sul—I had finally arrived at the gateway to Brazil’s southern Pantanal.
If you’re planning a similar trip, I’d recommend spending a couple of days in Campo Grande. Not only will it help you recover from the journey, but it also gives you a chance to explore the city’s parks, museums, and excellent regional cuisine before heading into the wild (read my post with the best things to do in Campo Grande).
From Campo Grande, I was meant to travel overland to Barranco Alto Lodge, but recent heavy rains had made the road impassable. Instead, I boarded a small 4 seater plane and flew over the flooded plains—an unforgettable introduction to the Pantanal’s vast, waterlogged wilderness.
- Where is the Pantanal Region
- Why Visit the Pantanal?
- Where To Stay in Pantanal – Barranco Alto lodge
- Other Recommended Lodges in the Pantanal
- Best Time to Visit the Pantanal
- What to Pack for the Pantanal
- Health and Safety in the Pantanal
- Food & Drink in the Pantanal
- Photography Tips for Wildlife Lovers
- Suggested Itinerary: One Week in the Southern Pantanal
- Entry Requirements: Do You Need a Visa for Brazil?
Where is the Pantanal Region
The Pantanal is located in the heart of South America, spanning parts of Brazil, Bolivia, and Paraguay, but the majority lies within the Brazilian states of Mato Grosso and Mato Grosso do Sul.
Why Visit the Pantanal?
While the Amazon often grabs the headlines, it’s the Pantanal that offers Brazil’s best and most accessible wildlife experiences. The Pantanal is the world’s largest tropical wetland, with over 150,000 square kilometres of floodplains, rivers, forests, and savannahs teeming with life.
What makes the Pantanal truly special is its incredible biodiversity combined with open landscapes, which makes spotting wildlife much easier than in the dense Amazon jungle. It’s one of the best places in the world to see jaguars in the wild, as well as giant otters, capybaras, caimans, howler monkeys, and over 600 species of birds, including the iconic hyacinth macaw.
There’s also the possibility of spotting a tapir — one of South America’s most elusive and ancient-looking mammals.
Where To Stay in Pantanal – Barranco Alto lodge
This region also offers a chance to experience the Pantaneiro lifestyle – a unique cowboy culture deeply connected to the land, cattle, and traditional ways of living in harmony with nature. I was lucky enough to experience it all while staying at Barranco Alto Lodge, one of the most remote and special places I’ve ever visited. We landed on the lodge’s grass airstrip, where our guides were already waiting for us — a warm and unexpected welcome.
After a relaxing afternoon, we set out at sunset for a quiet paddle down the river by the lodge, guided by the sounds of the forest and golden reflections on the water. And that’s when we saw it: a jaguar, resting silently on the riverbank. It stayed there as if we didn’t exist – calm, relaxed, and seemingly enjoying the moment just as much as we were. The whole scene felt surreal, like stepping into a nature documentary.
On our second day, after a hearty breakfast, we set off on horseback for a three-hour ride deep into the wetlands. Riding alongside real Pantaneiros, we crossed open fields, shallow streams, and forested trails. At one point, we rode right alongside herds of cattle, calmly wading through the floodplain — a striking image of the Pantanal’s unique coexistence between wildlife, people, and livestock. Bright green parrots darted between trees, and a toucan watched us from a high branch, its colourful beak catching the morning light. It felt like stepping into another world — wild, remote, and deeply connected to the rhythms of nature.
The evening, we set off on a night safari, sipping cold beers as the last light faded from the horizon. With the spotlight sweeping across the darkness, we spotted dozens of glowing caiman eyes, and were surrounded by the strange roar of what locals call “Formula One frogs” – tiny creatures whose croaks sound uncannily like race cars speeding around a circuit. It was wild, magical, and unlike anything I’ve experienced before.
Beyond the wildlife, what truly made Barranco Alto memorable was the hospitality. The owners and staff were incredibly warm and welcoming, and one of the highlights was that all guests ate together around a single large table. It created a lovely, communal atmosphere – swapping stories after a day out in the wetlands, sharing tips, laughter, and local food. While I was there, I met a Swiss family of four, with the mother originally from Brazil. It was a real pleasure chatting with them, exchanging travel stories and hearing their impressions of the Pantanal – moments of connection that made the experience even richer.
How to Get to Barranco Alto Lodge
Reaching Barranco Alto is an adventure in itself—part of the charm of visiting such a remote and pristine corner of the Pantanal. The lodge is located on a 11,000-hectare private reserve in the southern Pantanal, about 260 km northwest of Campo Grande. Here’s how to make the journey:
1. Fly to Campo Grande
Your starting point is Campo Grande, the capital of Mato Grosso do Sul. As mentioned earlier, international travelers typically fly into São Paulo (GRU) and then take a domestic flight to Campo Grande (CGR), which takes around 2 hours.
2. Arrange Transfers with the Lodge
Barranco Alto can organize a private transfer from Campo Grande to the lodge, which takes roughly 4 to 5 hours by road. The drive is split into two legs:
- First leg (3 hours): A paved highway (BR-262) toward Corumbá, passing through vast cattle ranches and cerrado (savanna) landscapes.
- Second leg (1.5–2 hours): A well-maintained dirt road through the Pantanal’s wetlands, where you might already spot wildlife like capybaras, rheas, or even a jabiru stork.
For those short on time or seeking a more scenic route, or when the roads are not accessible, Barranco Alto can arrange a charter flight from Campo Grande to their private airstrip (approx. 1 hour). While pricier, the aerial views over the Pantanal’s endless waterways and forests are unforgettable.
Other Recommended Lodges in the Pantanal
Although I stayed at Barranco Alto, there are several other well-regarded lodges in the southern Pantanal that are worth considering, depending on your travel style and interests. I didn’t visit these personally, but they came highly recommended by other travellers and locals I met during my trip:
Refúgio da Ilha – Set on an island between rivers, this pousada offers a slightly more rustic experience with a strong focus on nature immersion. It’s especially good for spotting aquatic wildlife and offers canoeing, fishing, and forest walks.
Hotel Fazenda Baía das Pedras – A traditional cattle farm turned eco-lodge, known for its authenticity and strong connection to Pantaneiro culture. It offers horseback riding, birdwatching, and boat tours in a remote and peaceful setting.
Hotel Barra Mansa – Located on the banks of the Rio Negro, this family-run lodge is known for its personal service and intimate atmosphere. It’s a great spot for wildlife photography, with opportunities to see jaguars, giant otters, and an abundance of birds.
Best Time to Visit the Pantanal
The Pantanal has two main seasons – the wet season (roughly December to March) and the dry season (May to October) – and your experience will vary greatly depending on when you go.
- Dry season (May to October) is generally the best time for wildlife watching. With lower water levels, animals are easier to spot as they gather around rivers and lagoons. Trails and roads are more accessible, and boat safaris are smoother, with better visibility for spotting jaguars, giant otters, and birdlife.
- Wet season (December to March) brings dramatic flooding. The Pantanal turns into an enormous freshwater wetland, incredibly lush and full of life. It’s great for birdwatching and photography, but spotting large mammals becomes harder, and access to remote lodges can be difficult or impossible by land.
- April and November are shoulder months – offering fewer tourists, vibrant landscapes, and still a good chance to see wildlife. However, road access can be unpredictable depending on recent rainfall.
I visited in April, and after a week of heavy rain, the region was still very much flooded. Water was everywhere, and many of the unpaved roads had become impassable. We had planned to reach Barranco Alto Lodge by car, but due to the poor road conditions, we had to switch plans and take a small air taxi to reach the lodge. It turned out to be a stunning flight over the wetlands, but it’s definitely something to be aware of if you’re travelling early in the season.
What to Pack for the Pantanal
Packing smart can make all the difference in the Pantanal, especially if you’re travelling during or just after the rainy season (like I did in April). The mosquitoes can be relentless, particularly in the early morning and at dusk, so long-sleeve shirts and full-length trousers are essential – not just any kind, though. Some lightweight clothes made from wide-threaded or loose-weave fabrics won’t stop mosquito bites. Opt for tightly woven materials, preferably treated with insect repellent, to keep bugs at bay while staying cool in the tropical heat.
Other essentials include:
- A wide-brimmed hat for sun protection
- High-DEET mosquito repellent
- Sunscreen (reef-safe if possible, to protect aquatic ecosystems)
- A light waterproof jacket or poncho for sudden downpours
- Waterproof shoes or hiking sandals with good grip
- Binoculars and a camera with zoom for wildlife spotting
- A head torch or flashlight for night safaris and lodge areas after dark
- Dry bags or waterproof pouches for electronics during boat trips
Health and Safety in the Pantanal
The Pantanal is generally safe for travellers, but you should take a few precautions:
- Yellow fever vaccination is recommended, especially if you’re visiting rural areas.
- Although malaria is not a major concern in the southern Pantanal, using mosquito repellent and wearing long clothes is a wise move.
- Bring any personal medication you need – remote lodges are hours from the nearest pharmacy or hospital.
- Finally, travel insurance that covers medical evacuation is a good idea, especially if you’re heading to remote areas like Barranco Alto.
Food & Drink in the Pantanal
One of the surprises of my stay was how delicious and hearty the food was at the lodge. Meals at Barranco Alto featured local produce, freshly caught fish, and Brazilian comfort food with a regional twist – think rice and beans, grilled meats, cassava dishes, and fresh tropical fruit. One night we even had piranha soup – not something I ever imagined eating, but surprisingly tasty!
Meals were a highlight not just for the food, but for the conversation around the shared table – a lovely way to unwind after a long day outdoors.
Photography Tips for Wildlife Lovers
If you’re serious about wildlife watching, a camera with a good zoom lens (at least 300mm) will make a big difference – especially for birds and shy animals like tapirs or anteaters. But even if you just have a phone, sunrise and sunset light in the Pantanal is magical, perfect for landscapes and silhouettes.
Bring a dry bag or waterproof pouch to protect your gear during boat trips or unexpected rainstorms.
Suggested Itinerary: One Week in the Southern Pantanal
If you’re planning your first trip to the Pantanal, here’s a 7-day itinerary based on my experience – perfect for nature lovers and adventure seekers:
- Day 1–2: Arrive in Campo Grande, explore Parque das Nações Indígenas, the Indigenous Museum, and Bioparque Pantanal. Rest up at your hotel and enjoy regional cuisine.
- Day 3: Transfer to your Pantanal lodge – either by road or air taxi depending on the season.
- Day 4–6: Enjoy guided wildlife activities: river paddling, horseback rides, walking safaris, and night jeep tours. Relax in the lodge and connect with fellow travellers over shared meals.
- Day 7: Return to Campo Grande. From here, you can either fly home – or continue your journey to Bonito, like I did, Brazil’s eco-tourism capital, famous for its crystal-clear rivers, caves, and snorkelling adventures (more on that in my next post!).
Entry Requirements: Do You Need a Visa for Brazil?
Brazil’s visa policy varies depending on your nationality. As of now:
- UK, EU, and most South American passport holders do not need a visa for tourist stays of up to 90 days, but your passport must be valid for at least six months beyond your arrival date.
- Citizens of Australia, Canada, and the United States were previously exempt, but from April 2025, a tourist visa will be required again for these countries. Make sure to check the latest updates and apply online via Brazil’s official e-visa platform.
- Regardless of nationality, proof of onward travel and sufficient funds may be requested on arrival.
It’s always best to double-check the most current entry requirements with the Brazilian embassy or consulate in your home country before you travel.
Lived in England since 1998 and travelled the world since 2005, visiting over 100 countries on 5 continents. Writer, blogger, photographer with a passion for adventure and travel, discovering those off beat places not yet on the tourist trail. Marco contributes the very best in independent travel tips and lifestyle articles.
