Placed between sea and jungle in the farthest corner of the remote Osa Peninsula, Corcovado National Park is among the shiniest gems of Costa Rica’s natural treasures. It is an ecosystem forged by dense jungle, primary rainforest, and desolate beaches, all of it overlooked by massive Pacific tides that either allow or forbid access. The land here is hard, rugged, and wild. It hides genuine dangers behind its stunning beauty—an untouched charm that remains entirely unbothered by its low number of visitors.
Getting to Corcovado: Drake Bay vs. Puerto Jiménez
Getting to the park boundaries requires a real willingness to adapt. There are two primary entrance gates to the region:
- Drake Bay: The more exclusive, isolated entry point lying to the west.
- Puerto Jiménez: The more democratic, charming hub to the north.
Puerto Jiménez became our headquarters. It’s a dusty town made of just a few streets, a handful of shops, and even fewer restaurants, yet it possesses a stunning, slow-paced charm. Here, colorful Scarlet Macaws (Ara macaos) squawk from the branches of beach almond trees, and the breeze shakes the palms facing the Golfo Dulce on a relaxing rhythm.
The Route: A 2-Day Trek from Carate to Sirena Ranger Station
There are several ways to visit the park, all of them costly and quite complicated. We choose a two-day trekking from Carate to a shelter called La Serena, at the heart of the whole area. You walk 20 kilometres per day carrying all you need to drink and eat, sandals to ford the rivers, an anorak against the rain, a bag for the waste and everything else you might need on a trekking. You leave from Puerto Jimenez on a truck or a jeep, and after almost a couple of hours through dirt patch, fords and slopes you get at the landing strip in Carate, where you start walking.
The distance is big and the pace is fast. In about one hour, flanking the forest and walking along a limitless and deserted beach, you arrive at the entrance La Leona where you sign in, take a quick break, and then up again.
In the next six or seven hours there is much strain, the backpack gets more and more heavy, the path is difficult. But every struggle is well tolerated thanks to the beautiful panoramas, the funny little challenges and the constant roar of the Pacific Ocean.
Parrots, snakes, iguanas, ant eaters, frogs, monkeys and even huge tapirs surprise the visitors during the whole trek. Then comes the hardest part and you have to walk along the sea, among rocks, cliffs and sand sinking at every step under the torching sun.
The goal is near, but once back again in the jungle there is one last, big obstacle. You have to wade across a river, with the water at your waist: the habitat – but we luckily discovered it only later – of crocodiles and sharks.
In our case, it also started raining. We were somehow shaken, but also in a rush of adrenalin. We took the bags over our heads and in a straight line we entered into the dark water. A few minutes later the shelter was in front of us, and we rushed towards a cold shower and a camp fire. At 8’o clock in the evening the lights went out: goodnight Corcovado.
Before dawn the day starts with a small walk in search for nocturnal animals. At six you have to leave because the tide is not waiting for anyone and 20 more exciting kilometres, in the wildest nature, are in front of you.
What to Pack for a Corcovado Trek:
- Reliable sandals or water shoes to ford the rivers
- A lightweight anorak or rain jacket against sudden jungle downpours
- Plenty of water and all the food you need to survive two days
- A dedicated bag to pack out all of your waste
The hiking distance is immense and the pace is fast. Within the first hour, flanking the dense forest and walking along a limitless, deserted beach, you arrive at the La Leona Ranger Station entry point to sign in, take a quick breathing break, and strap back in.
I also recommend to read the guide Chasing Volcanoes and Adrenaline: The Ultimate Costa Rica Adventure Guide if you are planning to spend some time in this country.
My roots are Emilia Romagna, Italy, but my job led me to Milan. When I’m not travelling I’m busy with marketing, events and social media. Since I started my blog writing has coupled my passion for travelling.
