Chefchaouen, the famous Blue City of Morocco, lies tucked into the Rif Mountains in the north of the country. From a distance it looks like a dream, a splash of blue spilled across the hills. Up close, it really does feel like a rose with a few thorns: incredibly beautiful, relaxed and welcoming, but shaped by a complex social reality that every traveller should understand before visiting.
We arrived without big expectations and ended up staying longer than planned, simply enjoying the slow rhythm of life, the light, and the endless maze of blue alleyways.
Why Is Chefchaouen Blue?
No one can say for sure why Chefchaouen’s medina is painted in so many shades of blue. Some link it to Jewish traditions, others to practical reasons such as keeping homes cool or repelling insects. Whatever the original reason, today the colour is very much part of the town’s identity — and its main attraction.
What makes Chefchaouen special is not just that it’s blue, but that the shades constantly change: pale sky blue in the morning, deep indigo in the shade, and glowing turquoise when the sun hits the walls. It’s a paradise for photographers, but also simply a pleasure to walk through without any plan.
Getting Lost in the Medina
Chefchaouen’s medina is compact, peaceful and far less intense than those of Fes or Marrakech. Getting lost here is part of the experience — and not a stressful one.
Small shops sell handmade blankets, wool garments, leather bags and local crafts. Cafés and tiny restaurants appear around every corner, and you can easily spend hours wandering, stopping for mint tea, and watching daily life unfold on doorsteps and in courtyards.
In the evening, the town becomes even more relaxed. Families stroll through the main square, kids play football, and travellers gather on terraces overlooking the hills.
The Rif Mountains and the Local Economy
Chefchaouen is not just a picturesque town; it is also part of the Rif region, one of the poorest areas in Morocco. Agriculture here is difficult, and job opportunities are limited, especially for younger generations.
For decades, cannabis cultivation has been one of the main sources of income in the surrounding countryside. This reality shapes both the local economy and how visitors experience the town, whether they are aware of it or not.
Understanding this background helps explain why tourism and informal economies coexist so visibly here, and why the relationship between travellers and local people can sometimes feel complicated.
What Travellers Should Know About Hashish in Chefchaouen
Let’s be honest: many people visit Chefchaouen knowing about its reputation, and visitors are often approached with offers in the street. It happens quickly and frequently, sometimes within minutes of arriving.
It’s important to remember that hashish is still illegal in Morocco, even if enforcement varies from place to place. While in some tourist towns authorities may appear tolerant, the law has not changed, and both locals and visitors take risks when dealing with it.
Beyond legal issues, there is also a personal safety aspect. Accepting offers from strangers, especially outside town or in isolated areas, can quickly become uncomfortable. For independent travellers — and even more so for families — it’s best to enjoy Chefchaouen for what it does best: atmosphere, scenery and slow travel, rather than chasing risky “experiences”.
Is Chefchaouen Safe to Visit?
Overall, Chefchaouen feels safe and friendly, and violent crime is rare. It’s a place where you can walk around in the evening without feeling uneasy, and where solo travellers usually feel comfortable.
The main discomfort some visitors experience comes from persistent selling, especially related to hashish. A polite but firm “no, thank you” usually works, and after a while people tend to stop insisting.
For families, Chefchaouen is surprisingly suitable: traffic is limited in the medina, distances are short, and the pace of life is calm compared to larger Moroccan cities.
Best Things to Do in Chefchaouen (Besides Walking the Medina)
While wandering the blue streets is the main attraction, there are a few experiences that make a stay in Chefchaouen even more rewarding.
Walk to the Spanish Mosque at Sunset
The short hike to the Spanish Mosque is one of the best things to do in Chefchaouen. It takes about 30 minutes uphill and rewards you with a panoramic view over the entire blue medina, surrounded by green mountains. Sunset is particularly beautiful, when the colours soften and the call to prayer echoes through the valley.
Visit Ras El Maa Waterfall
Just outside the medina, Ras El Maa is where mountain water flows into town. Locals come here to wash clothes and cool off, and it’s a nice place to sit for a while and observe everyday life beyond the tourist streets.
Explore the Rif Mountains
Chefchaouen can also be a base for light hiking in the Rif Mountains. Even short walks outside town quickly lead you into rural landscapes, olive groves and small villages where tourism still feels like a novelty.
Day Trip to Akchour Waterfalls
If you have more time, a day trip to the Akchour waterfalls is well worth it. The hike follows a river through a narrow valley and ends at natural pools where you can swim in summer. It’s one of the most scenic outdoor experiences in northern Morocco.
Is Chefchaouen Worth Visiting?
Absolutely — but not just as a quick stop for photos.
Chefchaouen is at its best when you slow down: staying overnight, having dinner on a terrace, waking up early to see the streets before the day-trippers arrive, and taking time to explore the surrounding countryside.
It is beautiful, yes, but also shaped by economic hardship and complex social issues. Seeing both sides makes the experience richer and more meaningful, especially for travellers interested in understanding places rather than just collecting images.
For us, Chefchaouen was not just the Blue City of Instagram fame, but a quiet mountain town where colours, light and everyday life blend into something genuinely memorable.
A degree in journalism and a professional limbo ranging from press offices to newspapers, magazines and finally the web. I lived in Verona, Zurich, London, Cape Town, Mumbai and Casablanca. I hate flying and I love jodel music. And when I grow up I wanna be a cosmonaut.
