Travelling in Sicily as a backpacker or independent traveler, is not an easy task, and certainly more complicated than you might expect. In terms of eating out, accommodation and transport certainly Sicily is not the most travel-friendly of places in Europe. Despite being one of the most beautiful and typical destinations of Italy, with a super friendly, helpful people, and boasting one of the best regional cuisines in the whole of the country; Sicily still struggles to meet the preferences of independent travellers for the following reasons:
The hurdles you need to overcome
Public transport: Unfortunately, traveling by public transport is a difficult experience and is not always pleasant. Even though Sicily was one of the first Italian regions to have railways, more than a century later, the rail network has remained pretty much the same, with old, dirty trains that are often late. This makes traveling on them inconvenient and impractical. Buses are available but infrequent and don’t connect all areas of the island, so a lot of patience is required.
Accommodation: There are only a handful of hostels, primarily located in the cities such as Palermo, Catania and Syracuse. Other options are mainly B&B’s or guest houses that of course have higher prices than hostels. Furthermore, in a lot of cases you will not find the receptions staffed: there is just a phone number to call, which is not always easy when you are a foreign traveler, who does not speak Italian and does not have a national sim card. If you are traveling in summer (or in the high season) prices skyrocket: it is hard to find a double room for less 100 euros per night. There are campsites, but often they are difficult to reach without your own transport.
Tourist Attractions are expensive: everything has an entry fee. There are even fee’s to access nature reserves, such as the Zingaro Nature Reserve near Trapani. One of the most well known tourist sites is the Valley of the Temples just outside the city of Agrigento, which costs € 11 per person. Then there are the museums, like the Palace of Normanni in Palermo, which costs € 7 per person and many others ..
Food: It is true that there are tourist menus advertised everywhere, which are cheaper than traditional menus, but it’s also true that the quality and quantity of the served food, is poor. A tourist menu does will not be cheaper than € 15 with a first course, a main course (meat) and coffee. If you would like a fish menu the prices start at € 25; on top of that, there is the service charge, which is a minimum of €2 per person. If you want to save money you can find pizzerias everywhere, but you can’t eat pizza every day!
Practical Advice for Independent Travelers
Where to Eat: Avoid restaurants with tourist menus for the reasons mentioned above. Instead, choose a pizzeria or local trattoria and order individual dishes. Not only will the portions be more generous, but the quality will be much higher. If you’re on a tight budget, visit local markets or grocery stores for fresh produce to prepare your own meals, or try street food such as arancini (fried rice balls) and panelle (chickpea fritters) for an affordable and tasty meal.
Where to Find Accommodation: Opt for B&Bs or rooms for rent, but book online in advance via platforms like Booking.com or Hotels.com. Booking directly at the property can often result in paying 30-40% more. Additionally, be aware that many B&Bs do not have a staffed reception, so plan ahead and communicate with the hosts before arrival. If you’re traveling on a tight budget, consider camping or staying in one of the limited hostels, but always book early.
Transport: The best way to explore Sicily is by car, especially if you’re venturing outside the main cities. While it can be costly for solo travelers, sharing a car with friends or other travelers can make it more affordable. You can find a good deal on rental cars here. Campervan rentals are also a great option, allowing you to save on accommodation costs and access remote areas. If you’re relying on public transport, prepare for delays and limited options. Apps like Trainline or Google Maps can help you navigate the bus and train schedules, but flexibility and patience are key.
Language and Communication: Sicily is less tourist-heavy than other parts of Italy, so English is not as widely spoken, especially in rural areas. To overcome this, learning a few basic Italian phrases can go a long way. Alternatively, download a translation app like Google Translate or Duolingo to help you communicate with locals and navigate signs or menus.
Car Rental Tips: If you decide to rent a car, make sure to book through a reputable agency and carefully check insurance coverage. Prices can vary, so shop around, and consider smaller, local rental companies which may offer better deals. I recommend DiscoverCars has it has been fabulous when we needed a car rental around the world. Watch out for driving in cities like Palermo, where traffic can be intense.
Balancing the Challenges with Rewards
While Sicily doesn’t score top marks for independent travelers, it’s important to remember why it’s still worth the visit. From the sun-kissed beaches to ancient ruins, stunning landscapes, and world-renowned food, Sicily offers a unique charm and authenticity that make the extra effort worthwhile.
So to sum up Sicily doesn’t score top marks for the independent traveller – however it is still worth a visit, just follow the advice above and make sure you visit some of the following places we’ve highlighted in an early post Sicily on the road, you won’t be disappointed.
Lived in England since 1998 and travelled the world since 2005, visiting over 100 countries on 5 continents. Writer, blogger, photographer with a passion for adventure and travel, discovering those off beat places not yet on the tourist trail. Marco contributes the very best in independent travel tips and lifestyle articles.
Sicily reveals itself slowly, you need time to ramble. When I first began going there, the temple sites were open to the winds and vandals, roamed by packs of wild dogs. I am happy to pay an entrance fee if it means that these world heritage sites are now protected and maintained, and there are some visitor services (like a washroom) on site. Agriturismo is a great way to find reasonable accommodation in rural surroundings. In several places, we encountered young idealists who had bought ‘confiscated from mafia’ properties cheaply from the government and were running them as agriturismi. We stayed at one in the Madonie mountains, near a grove of 1,000 year old oaks and an ancient healing shrine.