There’s a moment every year when I feel winter arrive — not when the temperature drops, or when the first Christmas lights appear, but when my daughters begin asking if the mountains are “white yet”. It happens like clockwork in late November, during breakfast, usually while someone is still half-asleep and the toast is getting cold.But that’s the charm of our winters: skiing in Italy has become our way of slowing down, of stepping out of the routine and reconnecting as a family. The mountains give us this gift — fresh air, open space, and the kind of stillness you only notice once you’ve left the noise behind.
This year feels especially exciting, with Italy gearing up for the 2026 Winter Olympics and resorts across the Alps and Dolomites opening their lifts with a renewed sense of energy. Everywhere you look, the mountains are waking up: snowcats grooming their first lines, lifts humming back to life, and that unmistakable Alpine light settling across the peaks.
Italy has more than 300 ski resorts, each with its own character, its own rhythm, its own way of welcoming you into winter. These are the places that have stayed with me — some glamorous, some quiet, all deeply memorable.
- Cortina d’Ampezzo, Veneto — The Queen of the Dolomite
- Courmayeur, Aosta Valley — Style, Sun & Mont Blanc
- Cervinia, Aosta Valley — Where Beginners Become Skiers
- Madonna di Campiglio, Trentino — Glamour Meets Wilderness
- Selva di Val Gardena, South Tyrol — Tradition in the Heart of the Dolomites
- Paganella & Andalo, Trentino — A Family Favourite (With Personal Memories)
- Final Thoughts
Cortina d’Ampezzo, Veneto — The Queen of the Dolomite
There are towns you simply visit, and then there are towns that imprint themselves on you. Cortina d’Ampezzo is firmly the second kind.
The first time I saw the Ampezzo Valley, I stopped the car without thinking. The Dolomites didn’t rise gently — they erupted out of the landscape, glowing gold in the late afternoon light. Even after years of travel, after dozens of winter trips, that moment remains suspended in my memory.
Cortina is a blend of elegance, history and raw Alpine beauty. On Corso Italia, stylish cafés sit beside mountaineering shops and pasticcerie where locals chat like they’ve known one another since childhood. It’s chic, yes — but wonderfully real.
What sets Cortina apart is the scale of the landscape around you. The 120 km of pistes aren’t just varied; they’re cinematic. Skiing here feels like you’ve slipped into an old Italian film, with the Tofane and Cinque Torri as your ever-present backdrop.
It’s also a resort that adapts beautifully to families. My daughters found themselves mesmerised — by the views, the wide slopes, the morning light turning the peaks pale pink. And there was a moment, on the Faloria ridge at sunrise, when even the usually chatty ski school groups around us fell silent. The mountains commanded it.
Where to stay: Grand Hotel Savoia — a timeless, luxurious base right in the heart of Cortina.
👉 Read my full in-depth guide to Cortina here:
Cortina d’Ampezzo in Winter: Ski, Style and Soul in the Dolomites
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Courmayeur, Aosta Valley — Style, Sun & Mont Blanc
Courmayeur is where Italy’s chic mountain spirit comes to life. Nestled beneath Mont Blanc, it’s a resort that feels both exclusive and welcoming — a place where seasoned skiers, food lovers and families mingle effortlessly.
The village itself is postcard-perfect: wooden balconies draped in winter greenery, narrow lanes leading to hidden cafés, and the constant presence of the mountains towering above.
The ski area is split between sunny Checrouit and dramatic Val Veny, giving you the best of both moods. And while the 43 km of pistes may seem modest, the off-piste routes and panoramic descents make Courmayeur feel far bigger than it looks on paper.
It’s also one of the best culinary ski destinations in Europe. Mountain huts here pride themselves on flavour, not fast service — dishes arrive slowly, with intention, the way mountain food should.
Where to stay: Le Massif — ideal location, ski concierge, superb spa. Perfect for a long weekend escape.
👉 Read my full in-depth guide to Cortina here:
Courmayeur in Winter: Ski, Food & Alpine Charm at Mont Blanc
Cervinia, Aosta Valley — Where Beginners Become Skiers
There’s something incredibly uplifting about Cervinia. High, sunny, open — it’s a resort that makes you feel like skiing is easy, even if it isn’t.
Set under the immense shadow of the Matterhorn, Cervinia offers 160 km of wide, forgiving slopes that have helped more first-time skiers than perhaps anywhere else in Italy. And for the adventurous, the link to Zermatt opens an entire Swiss world of terrain.The town itself is relaxed, car-free and filled with cosy trattorias where people compare ski school stories with big smiles and tired legs.
Even after years of skiing, I still love returning here. There’s something grounding about a place that welcomes everyone, from wobbly beginners to seasoned ski tourers.
Where to stay: VRetreats Cervino — elegant, eco-conscious and perfectly positioned for Matterhorn views.
Madonna di Campiglio, Trentino — Glamour Meets Wilderness
Madonna di Campiglio is where the polished elegance of northern Italy meets the wild side of the Brenta Dolomites.
The skiing is exceptional, with 50 km of scenic pistes, glacier views, and long linked descents that tie the whole region together. But what struck me most was the balance: high-end boutiques and stylish bars on one side; untouched nature and dramatic ridges on the other.
It’s a place for refined adventure — long ski days followed by spa evenings, snowy walks through the Adamello Brenta Nature Park, and dinners that feel like events.
Where to stay: Casa Cook Madonna — adults-only, design-led, serene, and just minutes from the lifts.
Selva di Val Gardena, South Tyrol — Tradition in the Heart of the Dolomites
Selva di Val Gardena is a resort with soul. It’s traditional, proud, and deeply connected to its Ladin heritage. And of course, it’s part of the legendary Dolomiti Superski network, which gives you access to 1,200 km of pistes from a single pass — including the iconic Sellaronda circuit.
The slopes here are wide, beautifully groomed and perfect for families. It’s impossible not to fall under the spell of these mountains: the Sella massif glowing orange at sunset, the sweeping runs that wrap around the valleys, the stillness of the early morning lifts.
Selva feels like a place you return to again and again, each time discovering a new corner, a new mountain hut, a new favourite run.
Where to stay: Hotel Granbaita — family-run warmth with world-class style and a vast wellness area.
Paganella & Andalo, Trentino — A Family Favourite (With Personal Memories)
If there’s one place that truly surprised us last winter, it was Paganella — not because of its dramatic scenery or the quality of its skiing (both excellent), but because it made travelling with kids feel effortless.
We spent a full week in Andalo, and from the first morning, everything just clicked. The lifts were close, the ski school was flawless, and the village had that rare mix of simplicity and warmth that makes families breathe a little easier.
On the slopes, the girls gained confidence faster than I expected. Paganella’s 50 km of runs are designed with progression in mind — gentle blues for beginners, more challenging reds for growing bravery, and spectacular viewpoints where even adults pause in mid-turn just to take it all in.
There’s a moment I still think about: standing on a quiet ridge, the Brenta Dolomites glowing gold, the girls waving at us from the chairlift. It was one of those small travel moments — fleeting, yet somehow defining. The kind you don’t plan, but never forget.
Andalo is the sort of place where you walk everywhere: to the lifts, the ice rink, the cafés, the playground. Even during Carnival week, when resorts can get crowded, Paganella had a gentleness about it. Plenty of space. Plenty of calm.
For families, that means everything.
👉 Read my full in-depth guide to Paganella and Andalo here:
Why Paganella Is the Perfect Winter Destination for Families
Final Thoughts
Italy does winter differently. Not just with style and scenery, but with a kind of warmth — a sense that the mountains aren’t just for experts or adrenaline seekers, but for families, for beginners, for anyone who wants to slow down and breathe.
From the elegance of Cortina to the child-friendly charm of Andalo, each resort has its own story, its own rhythm, its own way of pulling you into the season.
And if your winter begins, like mine, with someone small asking if the mountains are white yet, then you already know:
It’s time to go.
Lived in England since 1998 and travelled the world since 2005, visiting over 100 countries on 5 continents. Writer, blogger, photographer with a passion for adventure and travel, discovering those off beat places not yet on the tourist trail. Marco contributes the very best in independent travel tips and lifestyle articles.
