There are cities you visit, and cities that stay with you long after you’ve left: Istanbul belongs firmly to the second category. Just by naming it, one can summon the magic linked to every journey towards this place, so sought after by travellers, in the past as in the present.
I arrived in Turkey hoping to discover the ancient Constantinople, sure there was not only one side to unveil but more. And so I did. How? You just need to move in the opposite direction of most people, to get lost in that which is so unlikely to have anything to offer to tourists.
Istanbul Beyond the Postcard
I discovered poetry in Fatih, Fener and Balat—and I can say with certainty that walking through these districts was worth the entire journey.
These neighbourhoods are incredibly central, yet still largely overlooked by tourists. Here, you can breathe Istanbul’s true history: a city shaped by peoples, religions, social unrest and cultural movements. Stories that are simple, sometimes harsh, but always extraordinary.
Perhaps they have remained relatively unknown for a reason—and maybe they should. There’s a fragile balance here that deserves respect.
All three neighbourhoods lie inside the ancient city walls, west of Eminönü, overlooking the Golden Horn. This is where Istanbul feels raw, lived-in, and deeply authentic.
Fatih: The Conservative Heart of Istanbul
Walking through Fatih means entering one of the most conservative areas of the city. The strength of Muslim faith is visible everywhere and finds its highest expression in the imposing Fatih Mosque, a place that dominates both the skyline and daily life.
The alleys, the sounds, the contrasts—everything leaves a mark on the observer. Calls to prayer mingle with the voices of shopkeepers, while everyday life unfolds at a pace that feels untouched by tourism.
Not far away, the experience becomes even more sensory in the Spice Bazaar (Mısır Çarşısı). Unlike the Grand Bazaar, this historic market still feels deeply rooted in local life. Here, the air is thick with the scent of sumac, saffron and dried herbs, stalls overflow with Turkish delights, teas and spices, and most conversations happen in Turkish. It’s a place where Ottoman culinary traditions are still very much alive.
Moving towards the Çarşamba area, you suddenly come across something unexpected: a Byzantine church. The Church of Theotokos Pammakaristos, today known as Fethiye Camii, is a powerful reminder of Istanbul’s layered past, where religions and empires continuously overlapped.
Fener: The Greek Soul of Istanbul
Fener is the historical Greek neighbourhood of Istanbul, a maze of streets climbing up the hill from the Golden Horn. Getting lost here isn’t just easy—it’s part of the experience.
Among its most striking landmarks are the Greek Orthodox Gymnasium (Rum Lisesi), with its monumental red-brick façade, and the Church of St Mary of the Mongols, one of the few churches in Istanbul that has never been converted into a mosque.
Despite their importance, these places are still bypassed by most tourists, making Fener one of the most fascinating areas to explore in Istanbul off the beaten path.
Balat: Layers of Faith and Daily Life
Then comes Balat, the historic Jewish quarter of Istanbul. This area survived both Byzantine and Ottoman rule and remains a powerful symbol of religious coexistence in Istanbul.
Over the years, Balat has become a meeting point for locals, artists and curious travellers. Wandering through its streets, you’ll encounter synagogues, churches, mosques, colourful houses, children playing, and laundry hanging between buildings—everyday life unfolding naturally.
Among its treasures stands the Church of the Holy Saviour in Chora, famous for its extraordinary mosaics and frescoes, among the finest examples of Byzantine art in the world.
Why You Should Explore Alternative Neighbourhoods in Istanbul
Istanbul is far more than what you see on a classic sightseeing tour. To truly understand it, you need to go beyond the highlights, beyond the crowds, and beyond the postcard version of the city.
The real magic of Istanbul reveals itself only to those willing to crack the shell and look for the fruit inside.
To those who want to know Istanbul—not just photograph it.
Journalist, law student, travel writer and passionate about photography. Travelling to me means discovery, questioning and inspiration. And writing is my life essence.
