We spent a weekend in Pinerolo and Val Chisone, one of the most beautiful yet lesser-known corners of the Piedmont Alps, just over an hour’s drive from Turin. It’s an area where time seems to move more slowly — where the rhythm of mountain life, the warmth of local hospitality, and the simplicity of good food make you feel immediately at home.
As we arrived in Pinerolo, the gateway to the Chisone Valley (read more about Val Chisone), we were greeted by elegant arcades, historic cafés, and the quiet charm of a town that was once a major stop for travellers heading to France through the Alpine passes. The cobbled streets and old façades tell stories of another era, yet the town still feels lively and authentic. Strolling through its historic centre, we stopped for coffee and pastries at a local bakery, surrounded by friendly chatter and the aroma of freshly baked bread.
One of the most enchanting stops along the way is Lake Laux, a small alpine lake near Usseaux, surrounded by forests and traditional stone houses. On calm days, the surrounding peaks reflect perfectly on its still waters. It’s a peaceful spot, ideal for a short hike or a picnic, and it feels like nothing here has changed for centuries. The nearby village of Usseaux, with its colourful murals depicting scenes from mountain life, is officially listed among I Borghi più belli d’Italia — the most beautiful villages in Italy — and it’s easy to see why.
Another must-see is the Fenestrelle Fort, a monumental 18th-century fortress that climbs up the mountainside for over three kilometres. Often compared to the Great Wall of China, it’s one of the largest fortresses in Europe and a remarkable piece of history. Walking along its steep stairways and ancient walls, you can almost hear the echoes of soldiers who once guarded these valleys. The view from the top, stretching over the valley below, is simply breathtaking.
But what really makes the Val Chisone unforgettable is the warmth of its people and its deep-rooted traditions. From small mountain lodges to family-run trattorias, hospitality is heartfelt and genuine. We enjoyed hearty local dishes like polenta concia (creamy polenta with melted cheese), wild mushroom risotto, and homemade desserts — all accompanied by a glass of Piedmontese red wine.
For a truly magical experience, consider hiking to one of the valley’s alpine lodges on a winter night under the full moon. Walking through the snow, with only the sound of your footsteps and the moonlight illuminating the peaks, is something you’ll never forget. It’s an adventure that captures the pure essence of these mountains — wild, timeless, and incredibly beautiful.
We hope these photographs will give you a glimpse of the beauty and charm of Pinerolo and Val Chisone — a place where history, nature, and tradition come together in perfect harmony.
And for an unforgettable experience, try to hike to the Valley’s lodges, even better if during a Winter night under the full moon!
Lived in England since 1998 and travelled the world since 2005, visiting over 100 countries on 5 continents. Writer, blogger, photographer with a passion for adventure and travel, discovering those off beat places not yet on the tourist trail. Marco contributes the very best in independent travel tips and lifestyle articles.
